Runabout Reflections
"Life in the Bilge" is a continuing series of articles, written by Roy Domke, which will be published in upcoming editions of "Western Wood" magazine.
Please use this menu of links to navigate through the articles presented here:Roy Domke has also published articles about Antique and Classic Boat Society (ACBS) events, which provide a view inside the world of boating enthusiasts:
Published in the Summer 1996 edition of Western Wood
The Northern California/Lake Tahoe Chapter of the Antique and Classic Boat Society
Sanding previously varnished and painted surfaces, in preparation to apply additional coats, was never a process I looked forward to until I started experimenting with "wet sanding." What I found was that wet sanding offered several advantages over dry sanding, the combination of which makes the job much easier and pleasant.
Wet sanding produces no airborne dust and thus eliminates the need for a dust mask or respirator. The sanding residue is easily removed from the surface with a damp sponge and you and the rest of your boat and workspace remain clean. Wet sanding is faster cutting and much more sandpaper efficient than dry sanding.
As a general rule, finer grit paper should be used when wet sanding as opposed to dry sanding and care should be taken to make sure the sanded surface is completely dry before applying the new finish material. Disposable latex gloves protect the hands from abrasion.
Here are the materials and processes I use:
To clean the wet sanded surface, use a shop-vac with an internal replaceable filter bag. This will prevent fine dust residue from passing through the vacuum canister and back out into your work area. A 20-foot shop-vac hose with a round brush head is very efficient when cleaning the hull of a typical 18-foot to 20-foot boat.
Use a tooth brush in conjunction with the shop-vac to thoroughly clean seams, screw holes and any other crevices that might trap sanding residue.
Tack cloth the surface before varnishing or painting.
After going to all of this effort to prepare a surface for recoating, make sure you also follow the manufacturer's instructions on the varnish or paint container and apply the coatings with clean brushes in a clean and draft free environment.
I am planning future articles to cover many topics, including: Preparing the shop environment for varnishing and painting, methods of applying coatings to vertical and horizontal surfaces, and products that work for me.
Please address questions you have on other restoration problems to me in care of the following address:
"Western Wood"
Editor Sandy Chase
14800 Quinto Road
Los Gatos, CA 95030
I'll try to answer your questions in future editions of this column, which will be published in "Western Wood" as well as here, at this website.